Shaboo

You also have to find Shaboo, which is a dark inner sanctum tucked away to the side of Bar Masa, Mr. Takayama's main Las Vegas tent, which is shaped like a step-roofed pagoda and serves sushi/sashimi improvisations (akamutsu deep-sea snapper from Chiba, Japan, for $10 a piece) that had local dining critics gasping with disbelief.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

You also have to find Shaboo, which is a dark inner sanctum tucked away to the side of Bar Masa, Mr. Takayama's main Las Vegas tent, which is shaped like a step-roofed pagoda and serves sushi/sashimi improvisations (akamutsu deep-sea snapper from Chiba, Japan, for $10 a piece) that had local dining critics gasping with disbelief.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

You also have to find Shaboo, which is a dark inner sanctum tucked away to the side of Bar Masa, Mr. Takayama's main Las Vegas tent, which is shaped like a step-roofed pagoda and serves sushi/sashimi improvisations (akamutsu deep-sea snapper from Chiba, Japan, for $10 a piece) that had local dining critics gasping with disbelief.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

You also have to find Shaboo, which is a dark inner sanctum tucked away to the side of Bar Masa, Mr. Takayama's main Las Vegas tent, which is shaped like a step-roofed pagoda and serves sushi/sashimi improvisations (akamutsu deep-sea snapper from Chiba, Japan, for $10 a piece) that had local dining critics gasping with disbelief.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

You also have to find Shaboo, which is a dark inner sanctum tucked away to the side of Bar Masa, Mr. Takayama's main Las Vegas tent, which is shaped like a step-roofed pagoda and serves sushi/sashimi improvisations (akamutsu deep-sea snapper from Chiba, Japan, for $10 a piece) that had local dining critics gasping with disbelief.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

MGM Mirage White-truffle soba tea ice cream with gold at Shaboo, above, and sea scallops and foie gras at Twist, below.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

Admittedly Shaboo sets the bar very high, even for the highflyingest diner: $500 a person for a set but unpredictable meal, exclusive of wine service and tax.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

A visit to City Center finds fine dining worth the name at Sage and Twist, empty seats at pricey Shaboo.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

But now attendance in the big top is sparse and my wife and I had Shaboo, with its intimate 52 seats, all to ourselves, literally, except for a gallant staff of young women attendants, who helped us get the hang of pushing foie gras and other luxury oddments around in broth simmering over cool magnetic induction burners integrated into our table.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010

But now attendance in the big top is sparse and my wife and I had Shaboo, with its intimate 52 seats, all to ourselves, literally, except for a gallant staff of young women attendants, who helped us get the hang of pushing foie gras and other luxury oddments around in broth simmering over cool magnetic induction burners integrated into our table.

Taking a Chance on Vegas's New Spots Raymond Sokolov 2010