Tibbott

"It was like, 'Here's your salad and baked potato -- be happy,'" recalls Tibbott, sitting in his office at Turtle Island Foods, his Hood River, Oregon, company.

GOOD Magazine: Where's The Beef? 2008

A new fake hot dog from Turtle Island Foods Inc., the maker of Tofurky products, has "more bite," says company president Seth Tibbott .

The Veggie Burger's New Dream: Be More Like Meat Anne Marie Chaker 2012

Tibbott said four pumps were taking water out of the mine, and "the good news is water levels are receding slowly."

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"If I have a complaint in what I see on the market, it's that 'lower in fat' means 'drier,' " says Mr. Tibbott, himself a vegan.

The Veggie Burger's New Dream: Be More Like Meat Anne Marie Chaker 2012

That can present taste hurdles, says Turtle Island's Mr. Tibbott.

The Veggie Burger's New Dream: Be More Like Meat Anne Marie Chaker 2012

The skin provides resistance against the teeth, which must sink in further, creating "a burst of juice and flavor in the mouth," Mr. Tibbott says.

The Veggie Burger's New Dream: Be More Like Meat Anne Marie Chaker 2012

"The whole thing that we try to do is bring vegetarians to the table on separate but equal footing with meat-eaters," explains Tibbott, 56, as he leads a tour of his plant.

GOOD Magazine: Where's The Beef? 2008

"This is where I think we need to be less militant and sanctimonious, and more appreciative of where these guys are coming from," says Tibbott.

GOOD Magazine: Where's The Beef? 2008

Tibbott himself elected to give up meat back when he was a sixth grade teacher charged with educating youngsters about nature.

GOOD Magazine: Where's The Beef? 2008

Not that Tibbott won't taste the forbidden flesh from time to time -- sacrifices must be made in the name of science.

GOOD Magazine: Where's The Beef? 2008