Villaine

Generously, Mr. de Villaine says that we are not obliged to spit, but such is the scarcity of these wines that after the first sip we have to pour back the remainder of our glass into the barrel.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

Mr. de Villaine prefers to describe his wines in terms of character, as opposed to taste.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

Just a receptionist, a few men working in the winery and, after a short wait, Aubert de Villaine, who, after introducing himself, politely asks if we can go to the cellars straight away as it is vintage time in a few weeks and there is a lot to do.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

"These wines will always need the hand of man and the way they are made today requires patience and a long-term vision," Mr. de Villaine says.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

William Daniels for The Wall Street Journal Aubert de Villaine contemplates another vintage in the cellar of Roman é e-Conti.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

Aubert de Villaine has been working at the domaine for more than 40 years, a period during which he has honed a philosophy that is based on respect and humility for the land he farms: What is taken out of the soil is given back, there are no chemical fertilizers, treatments or many of the modern wine-making gadgets available to the contemporary vigneron.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

"What I have learned is that the talent that makes the wines is not with us," says Mr. de Villaine, dipping a pipette into a large oak barrel named Richebourg and drawing out a dark, purple wine.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

William Daniels for The Wall Street Journal Aubert de Villaine, who, along with his co-director Henry-Fr é d é ric Roch, has, for more than a quarter of a century, has been at the forefront of not only restoring the reputation of the wines of Domaine de la Roman é e-Conti but also of the wines of Burgundy itself.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

And to do this, one has to speak to its winemaker: the thoughtful, donnish 71-year-old Aubert de Villaine, who, along with his co-director Henry-Fr é d é ric Roch, has, for more than a quarter of a century, has been at the forefront of not only restoring the reputation of the wines of Domaine de la Roman é e-Conti but also of the wines of Burgundy itself.

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010

The gentle action of the horses 'hooves, Mr. de Villaine says, "does not compact the soil as much."

Searching for Perfection Will Lyons 2010