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  • Played on the eponymous three-stringed, pear-shaped instrument (it looks like a small violin, but is held upright on the knee and bowed horizontally) and accompanied by verses of rhyming couplets (or mantinades) that are "rapped", Crete's musical legacy has a rough quality – not unlike tsikoudia, the local firewater that's served at lyra gigs.

    Insiders' guide to Greece


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