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  • "In 1972, as the much-talked-about young chef of his new Paris restaurant, L'Archestrate, one of his many iconoclastic ideas was to serve fresh cod, cabillaud. It had never before been offered in a top-rated Paris restaurant. Like salt cod, most great Paris chefs have their roots in southern regions.... Salt cod, morue, had slowly made its way up from peasant food in the south to become an honored French tradition. But not fresh cod.

    "He created a fresh cod recipe and offered it on the menu as Cabillaud Rôti, Roasted Cod. No one bought it. So he removed the word cabillaud and substituted morue fraîche, 'fresh salt cod.' It was a hit."

    —Mark Kurlansky, Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World (New York: Penguin, 1997), 205

    July 18, 2009