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I could go on: no chrain, no garlicky new green pickles, and how could they have run out of chicken soup the day I went?
I said chrain, the killer condiment that mixes beetroot and horseradish, should be on the menu.
She was careful to get rid of the evidence so that all wed see were warmed oblong loaves, delicious on our plates next to a dollop of chrain, or horseradish.
Admiring the contrast between chrain beetroot and horseradish purée and Parmesan and bone marrow sauce on brown toast was the best we managed.
It is useful only as a sponge for the seasoned horseradish and the chrain, or beet relish, each energetically bright and pungent, and each deserving a better foil.
And like the fish it accompanies, chrain is also easy to make at home and much better than the jarred equivalent.