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I get lost among the cornucopias of chotkies and tat, and am somehow spilled back out to the main Jemaa El F'na Square, where one charmeurs de serpent pulls me under his black umbrella and wags his head at his Egyptian Cobra actually, Naja haje legionis, a sub-species found in southern Morocco as his associate blows his bagpipe-like melody in his ghaita.
Touted by Burroughs to heads in the West as "the oldest music on earth," Jajouka offered days-long trance ceremonies honed from 600 years of tradition and fueled by "the blaring drone of handcrafted ghaita reeds and lira bamboo flutes, vocal chants and burbling percussion."