Hue's

And when it comes to helping promote tourism by organizing more tours of Hue's remarkable residential architecture, he concedes, "We have failed so far to make this proper linkage."

The Battle for Hue 2010

But no element of Hue's heritage is more vulnerable than the scattered and unsupervised nha ruong which Mr. Hoa, the cultural festival's director, declares "no less important than the Citadel and the tombs," explaining that the style dates to the 16th century.

The Battle for Hue 2010

The most often displayed is Ngoc Son, a former retreat of a princess now inhabited in messily archive-crammed fashion by Hue's leading historian, Phan Thuan An. Luke Duggleby for The Wall Street Journal

The Battle for Hue 2010

More than any NGO or government initiative, the hope for Hue's old houses may lie with self-appointed saviors like the youthful Mr. Huy who says he shares "a natural appreciation for gardens with all Hue people."

The Battle for Hue 2010

Tourism is a big part of the region's economy, and Hue's visitor numbers have slipped as those for Central Vietnam's other World Heritage site, the port of Hoi An now a boutique-laden tourist zoo have risen.

The Battle for Hue 2010

Call it all the Vietnamese version of dim sum as so much about Hue's traditions are markedly Chinese in influence except that there's no requirement to accompany anything with tea.

The Dish: Hue's Banh Beo 2010

These are two barely covered outdoor eateries strung along an alley alongside the restored An Dinh palace in Hue's more modern downtown, south of the Citadel and the Perfume River.

The Dish: Hue's Banh Beo 2010

Hang Me, 45 Vo Thi Sau St. This is one of three very popular spots, two adjoining, on a street within walking distance of Hue's backpackers 'center.

The Dish: Hue's Banh Beo 2010

In Hue's most popular between-meals treat, the banh beo and its side dishes rice flour, fish sauce and shrimp meat are raised to truly regal heights.

The Dish: Hue's Banh Beo 2010

All of Hue's better hotels are on the southern side of the river, across from the Citadel.

The Battle for Hue 2010